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Do I need to supplement my filter?
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Madkour
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Joined: 22 Jul 2003
Location: TX

PostPosted: 2003.08.18(Mon)1:57    Post subject: Do I need to supplement my filter? Reply with quote

I bought a used 90 gal a few days ago that came with an eheim 2226 and a penguin 330 (two bio wheels). I'm wondering if that's more filtration than I need and if the eheim should be OK on its own. the previous owner said he used the penguin for more bio filtration. I know bio wheels provide excellent bio filtration, but aren't eheims just as efficient?

by the way, is there an easier way to prime this thing without getting a mouthful of water? I guess my mistake was filling up the canister before hooking up the in and outs.
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Type-R
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Joined: 31 Jul 2003
Location: East Yorkshire, UK

PostPosted: 2003.08.18(Mon)8:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would guess this depends on how heavily you stock the tank. The Eheim 2226 is good for up to 92 you.S gallons so it will provide enough water turn over for your tank. I can't see why you would need the Penguin as well unless the tank was very heavily stocked (which is not good anyway). Many people think that the Eheims are the Rolls Royce of Filters so I would stick with that, extra filters just use extra electricity! Smile
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Madkour
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Joined: 22 Jul 2003
Location: TX

PostPosted: 2003.08.19(Tue)15:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't plan on having the tank over stocked at all, so I thought I would be enough to just have the eheim. someone told me, though, that oxygen levels in the water may end up low, hence the addition of the penguin. is that really a problem?
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I suppose the right question for that is, "what do you mean?" And the correct response is, "what do you mean, what do you mean?"
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Joined: 31 Jul 2003
Location: East Yorkshire, UK

PostPosted: 2003.08.20(Wed)6:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see any reason why your oxygen levels would end up low. As long as you are circulating enough water (which the Eheim will) there should be plenty of oxygen entering the tank through contact with the surface of the water. There is usually no need to break up the surface either, by a return splashing onto it etc.
I would say just go for the Eheim and keep an eye on things, you will soon know if your fish need more oxygen as they will be hanging at the surface and trying to gulp air.
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Madkour
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Joined: 22 Jul 2003
Location: TX

PostPosted: 2003.08.21(Thu)1:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, will do. thanks for the advice. I started cycling the tank with 8 cherry barbs (which all developed ich a day after I put them in) and now one is completely missing. I've looked in the filter and under the driftwood but there's no sign of it. what happens if I can't find her? the water is cloudy which could be because of the new flourite, but maybe the barb's stuck somewhere decaying. do I have to pull apart everything to find it, because that would be a big pain.
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Joined: 31 Jul 2003
Location: East Yorkshire, UK

PostPosted: 2003.08.21(Thu)5:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats a shame about your Barb Sad
Obviously as the barb is presumably dead somewhere it will rot and pollute the water, you could well end up with an ammonia spike due to this.
I wouldn't take the tank down as you will be back to square one again. Have another look to see if you can find the body, it would be much better if you could.
Keep an eye on your Ammonia and Nitrite levels and do frequent small water changes to control them. (Say 10% per day or so). Do the rest of your Barbs look OK? I mean they don't look like they are dying?
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Madkour
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Joined: 22 Jul 2003
Location: TX

PostPosted: 2003.08.21(Thu)12:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

I lost a couple more overnight. I performed a water change yesterday (about 30%) and have been testing the water daily. I have a feeling this may become a troublesome setup. when I bought it the owner told me that the driftwood lead to major pH fluctuations because it softened the water so much. he had crushed coral as substrate to keep everything stable, ending up with an ideal basic pH for his african cichlids. I want a slightly acidic, but still stable, pH so I took out half of the driftwood and did away with the corral. my tap water has a pH of about 7.4 and a KH of 5. the pH of water in the tank is about 7 and the KH drops to about 2. the KH is a little lower than I would like (maybe some of you would like to convince me otherwise) and I'm worried that water changes will stress out the fish... what do you think?

I'm also worried that I stupidly brought about this bout of ich. when I got the setup I let everything soak in the tank in a 5% bleach solution and scrubbed and rinsed everything thoroughly. I rinsed the tank out and then let it sit full of freshwater for about 3 days and set the driftwood (which was also bleached) out in the sun (I was told that this would ensure no leftover bleach) for a day. I put the driftwood back into the tank and treated everything with 3X usual dosage of amquel. this gave me a really high ammonia reading (4-5 at the time... this has fallen to about 2-3 but still no nitrite), but there were no fish in it at the time. when I became convinced through rsome web browsing that the reading was false I went ahead and got the fish. I don't know why the fish got ich, but if I think it very possible residual bleach got to them. it's been four days, though, and I'm wondering if bleach would have killed them all sooner. some advice on what to do would be really appreciated. sorry this is so long.
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Joined: 31 Jul 2003
Location: East Yorkshire, UK

PostPosted: 2003.08.21(Thu)12:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not certain about this but I think the driftwood could be at least part of the problem with residual bleach. I would take it out straight away just in case. If your tank water is 2KH then it is too low and you are going to be looking at a pH crash.
Quote:
the pH of water in the tank is about 7 and the KH drops to about 2
what do you mean by this? When does the KH drop to 2? After how long?
For now I would just get that driftwood out and do a 50% water change using only a chlorine / chloramine treatment. If your tap water is 5 KH then this is sufficient so I wouldn't bother adding baking soda or anything yet. As you are showing no Nitrite yet the big water change isn't ideal as it can slow the cycling, but it might save the rest of your fish!
Is there anywhere you can get any filter material or gravel from an established tank?
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Madkour
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Joined: 22 Jul 2003
Location: TX

PostPosted: 2003.08.21(Thu)13:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
When does the KH drop to 2? After how long?

I mean the KH drops from 5 in the tap water to 2 in the tank (it doesn't take long.. less than a day, I think). I know the driftwood will soften the water, but it's a really nice piece that I think the fish will enjoy. I'll take it out now to see if there's bleach left in it (how would I check by the way?) but I would like it back in the tank at sometime. I put some gravel in this tank from my other tank, so I'm going to keep a watch over the levels. I'm not worried about how long it will take to cycle, because I may just end up using bio spira when I add some fry I'm trying to grow out (when they're a little bigger and I'm sure everything is safe), so I'll do the 50 percent change later today (I hate wasting all this water).
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Irons
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Joined: 27 Feb 2003
Location: Buffalo, NY

PostPosted: 2003.08.21(Thu)13:17    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can always suppliment your KH with sodium bi-caronate. Don't add to much. Watch how it changes your water. You can use some of your waste water to test with. If you don't like wasting that water toss it in the garden and water your house plants with it. That's what I do. You can see the diffence where you put the water and where you don't sometimes.
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