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Quarantine Tank
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umich79
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Joined: 01 Apr 2005

PostPosted: 2005.04.20(Wed)14:36    Post subject: Quarantine Tank Reply with quote

I'm setting up a 10 G quarantine tank, and just have a couple of questions. I used about 4 G's from the main tank and the rest is HO. For the meantime I placed a rather large conch shell which had been in the main tank, in it with no substrate along with some previously frozen brine that were left over from a feeding I was doing. Should I place a subtrate in the Q tank? Am I expiditing cycling by using water from the main tank...only when I do my weekly water change? Should I eventually stock the 10G with one fish to mimic perameters in the main one, and if so, should I also put some inverts in it and LR? Oh, and, if I decide that I'm not going to add anymore fish/inverts to the main tank, what should I do with the 10G? Does LR need to be quarantined? Thanks.

Chris
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tdfd
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Joined: 15 May 2004
Location: Seattle, Wa

PostPosted: 2005.04.20(Wed)18:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

No substrate. Keep it simple. a glass tank with a decent decoration for the fish to hide behind. Don't keep another fish in it rather keep some filter material in the sump of your main tank if you have one. When you do water changes from your main tank just put some of that water into you QT to keep the water parameters similar to your main tanks. Substates will make it harder to get rid of diseases since some will live in the substate and it is one mess to clean or toss after you do have a problem.
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FloridaBoy
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Joined: 04 Jul 2004

PostPosted: 2005.04.20(Wed)20:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are great questions, glad to see you are setting up QT, regardless of what others may tell QT is essential to your long term success in the hobby. That's why experts like Steven Pro suggest 4 weeks of QT for anything going into your display, yes EVEN live rock, which can and does harbor pathogens.
I suggest keeping the QT going all the time; adding a small resident fish will force you to watch the parameters; SG/temp, etc... aside from new arrivals, you never know when you will need a hospital system or refuge for something from your display that got beat up/bullied or stopped eating, and the QT will be ready to save your backside. It has saved mine often. I also feel it's important to set this up as an isolated system; that way it's isolated from any poisons or pathogens which might crop up in the display(s).
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umich79
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Joined: 01 Apr 2005

PostPosted: 2005.04.20(Wed)21:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

Initially, being new to everything, myself and my roommate were trying to make our show tank look good. In the months that have insued since the inception of the tank, we've done more reading, and have lucked out in our errors to the point where doing things right are much more worth the struggle of doing things quickly. The Q-tank/hospital tank was made a reality by the threat of Ich/Ick on a Tomato clown we had introduced along with some LR. Turns out, the clown was stressed, and has since been eating like a pro, and moving around the tank, with no signs of said issue. I'll keep it simple, as I think we have enough room for one more fish...perhaps. My goal is to keep it simple, and we really lucked out with some great LR with bunches of small feather dusters, button pollups and even a sea hare (all of which are pretty small still). Thanks for the info though, theres not much on Q tanks, at least that I could find anywhere. Don't have a sump, but our tank is pretty small, and I do 20-30% water change weekly. However we do have a nitrate level of 15-20 ppm almost constantly. I'm thinking that it may be a detritus issue...along with uneaten food. Problem I'm having at the moment is I have enough snails that eat algae, but none that really take care of detritus. My hermits spend more time on the rock so the substrate is becoming my main concern. Any suggestions?
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tdfd
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Joined: 15 May 2004
Location: Seattle, Wa

PostPosted: 2005.04.21(Thu)0:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your nitrates are 15-20 it sounds like you are maxed out on fish. Describe your setup as far as equipment and water parameters so we can help you better.
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TheVillageIdiot
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Joined: 23 Nov 2004
Location: Roswell, GA

PostPosted: 2005.04.21(Thu)7:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

In a QT tank, if you use it to treat disease, I believe some (if not all) of the treatments can (or will) kill the inverts... copper treatment, etc... double check on that, but I'm pretty sure that's the case... Very Happy

so I suppose if you are going to treat disease, take your live rock and inverts out of the QT tank first...
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umich79
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Joined: 01 Apr 2005

PostPosted: 2005.04.21(Thu)11:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a 25 G tank, 20 lbs of aragonite substrate, about 25-28 lbs various LR, Penguin 200 HOB, bio-wheel removed, Seaclone 100 skimmer, Orbit 2 Lamp 24 hour system, includes dual daylight, dual actinic and lunar lights. Water parameters: Ammonia 0, pH 8.2-8.4, Specific Gravity: 1.024-5. I think That's about it, at least that's what I can test for. After water changes I can get the nitrates to 0 but they go up after about 24 hours. This has been happening every since the tank cycled, even without inverts and only one fish. Perhaps it's the test I'm using, or I may have too many inverts becuase there is only one fish in the system at the moment. Anyhow, any help would be very much appreciated. Oh and the temp is 78'. Don't have anything in the QT tank but a shell from the bigger tank, and some small left over brine to assist in cycling.
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tdfd
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Joined: 15 May 2004
Location: Seattle, Wa

PostPosted: 2005.04.21(Thu)14:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lose the penguin, whatever you are using for mechanical filtration is probably also doing some biofiltration too even without the biowheel. It is probably producing nitrates.
Your live rock, skimmer and sandbed should be all you need. If that reduces your nitrates then you could get another small fish.
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