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Cichilids for these conditions.
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J2FcM
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Joined: 23 Jan 2007

PostPosted: 2007.01.24(Wed)2:04    Post subject: Cichilids for these conditions. Reply with quote

I'm just wondering if anyone can help me decide which way to go with cichlids here. The problem I'm having is... I like dwarf cichlids, my GF likes malawi, and we're going to choose whatever fits our water parameters the best...

BUT... from my initial readings... it looks as if the water doesn't really suit either.

Straight Tap water (with aqua safe)
180-300 KH
7.8 pH

Tap water with some salt and aqua safe
120-180KH
7.8pH

My 70 gallon cycling tank, with 6 minnows, and gravel from their established 1 gallon tank --> this is where the cichlids would end up.
80KH
7.2ish pH


For all 3 of the above tests, my GH was about 75-150. THere is a large jump on the strips I use, so that is a vague reading.

any suggestions?
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Cathy G
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Joined: 27 Jan 2006
Location: Wisconsin

PostPosted: 2007.01.24(Wed)6:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand the discrepancies between your numbers either - you should probably get an aquarium pharmaceuticals test. (Drops and test tubes...)

How often do you do water changes and how much? Some cichlids are really require pristine water...

Cathy
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number6
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Joined: 07 Feb 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: 2007.01.24(Wed)8:53    Post subject: Re: Cichilids for these conditions. Reply with quote

J2FcM wrote:

80KH
7.2ish pH


For all 3 of the above tests, my GH was about 75-150. THere is a large jump on the strips I use, so that is a vague reading.

any suggestions?
the above are your real tap water readings... tap water can come out with some odd results because of things that have yet to precipitate out or gas off.

You have hard water with a low KH, and hence low pH. You actually have decent water for either direction.

For Malawi, you can use a crushed coral or aragonite substrate that will increase carbonate hardness and pH for healthy Malawi fish.

For soft water dwarfs like A. cacatoides, your water is good to go as is. If you wish to soften the water further for better numbers of fry, then peat filtering will work on that tap water.

I'd say you are lucky... Very Happy
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"Just don't look in my fish room honey... it's just better for all of us. "
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fishlover888
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Joined: 20 Dec 2006

PostPosted: 2007.01.24(Wed)11:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

What you need is aging your water before doing water changes. That will give you stable pH of 7.2, which is good for lots of different fish.
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125 g discus tank 13 discus, 5 Sterbai cory, 3 clown loaches, 1 Albino BN pH 6.3 50% WC x2/wk
2 g nano tank 3 Danio, pH 7.6 80% WC/ 2 days
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J2FcM
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Joined: 23 Jan 2007

PostPosted: 2007.01.24(Wed)14:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, for my 2 tap water samples, I let them sit out in cups on the desk for about 12 or so hours. For the discrepencies, I just couldn't decide which way to lean towards, therefore I put the 150-300 because on my little color chart those are the two choices it sits between.

But, judging by your responses, and further reading on the matter... it looks like Dwarf cichlids would require "less change" to live happily in my tank.

On another note, I asked the people at Petsmart what they kept their parameters at, and I think they said around 7.2 as well... Now, I didn't ask for Electric Yellow cichlid parameters in their tank, but is it possible they could be keeping Electric yellows in those conditions...

Which I would imply, they are already conditioned to those water conditions and could potentially live in my water conditions as well... or do those guys REALLY like hard water\high pH and I'm just making it all up
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number6
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Joined: 07 Feb 2003
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: 2007.01.24(Wed)16:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's like baking a cake... you can bend the rules, add in more water, less egg, but eventually your cake doesn't taste too good anymore if you go too far... same with the fish... you can bend the rules, but if you go too far, then the opportunistic illnesses start to bug you... Ich, fin rot, cloudy eye, etc.

pH is equiv. to the eggs... Laughing
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"Just don't look in my fish room honey... it's just better for all of us. "
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J2FcM
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Joined: 23 Jan 2007

PostPosted: 2007.01.24(Wed)17:44    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure I understand your last bit on the eggs... Do you mean the "prefered" pH is the conditioned needed for the fish to lay eggs?

I wouldn't mind keeping either cichlid type even if its out of ideal parameters, but I just don't want the fish suffering or acting bizzaro. I have no problem changing water and making sure things stay stable though.
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