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blue regal-fading of colour
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shellshock
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Joined: 08 Jul 2006
Location: manchester

PostPosted: 2006.07.08(Sat)9:53    Post subject: blue regal-fading of colour Reply with quote

Hi! I've had a blue regal (named Doro) for three months now, Doro was bright blue and black with yellow tips, however, we had some really hot weather about a month ago and I had difficultly cooling the tank. During the hot weather, I returned home one evening and thought she had died as she was rigid and still (just as another blue regal had looked when she had died), however she still ate the same and eagerly swam around eating every trace.
One evening after a partial water change of about 15/25% Doro looked as though she had faded-drastically, her bright colours looked as through she had been in the sun and faded. I visited a local specialist and they checked my water...pH, oxygen,ammonia etc and after doing further water changes to get some level down from 20 to 15 (I'm not sure what this was a measure of), they suggested that it may be her diet...of which I feed frozen mysis. brine shrip and so I purchased seaweed. Since, she has eaten the seaweed but her colouring does not look like it used to and I'm concerned??? She has small pot hole like markings around her face but since comparing to other regals she looks "healthy". Am I being over cautious, or is there something I need to do to help? Could this possibly be a result of her growing up?
Please help!

Thank you!!!!
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Josh Hansen
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Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Location: Dayboro, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: 2006.07.08(Sat)18:08    Post subject: Dora Reply with quote

I would be always concerned if my fish lose colour as this is a sign of stress or illness. First thing I looked at is the water quality parameters to see if the water is causing negative impacts. I have seen you have done but would you post the results of the water test so we can help you better. Another option is to tell your maintenace schedule and the fish tank size. Remember marine fish are less tolerant of changes in their water as freshwater fish.

I can not recommend if the diet is correct as I do not keep marine but I would ask this question on the marine site. Another concern would be to buy the marine fish from a reputable dealer as there is poisoning method of marine fish catching by the asian market.

Oxygen testing is not reliable on once day effort and needs to be tested 2x a day (pref in the morning and evening) as oxygen can change during the day. Warmer temperature does lower the oxygen level than colder temperatures in aquarium water so an aeration would be the ideal option. Lack of oxygen is more fatal than high temperature in aquarium.

Hope your fish becomes better

from Josh
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shellshock
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Joined: 08 Jul 2006
Location: manchester

PostPosted: 2006.07.09(Sun)12:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much for your reply Josh (really appreciated)!

I have done tests just now (7.30pm) and here are the results:

Oxygen=3ish when read after 30 seconds as instructed, although after allowing it to settle for a minute or two it appears to read a 5 as it has a peachy colour.

pH=8.3

Ammonium appears lower than 0 - is very pale!

My tank size is 60 gallons, I have a new external filter (which will filter a much, much larger tank), and I do a water change every two weeks...when the pH drops during the week I will add Reef Buffer-I use conditioned tap water then add approx half a 5ml spoon of buffer to help maintain a pH of 8.3.

Sorry my reply isn't very precise, I'm fairly new at this and am finding it difficult to find information which explains everything really simple and easy to undersatand (e.g. the nitrogen cycle!!!!)

From Michelle.
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Josh Hansen
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Joined: 20 Feb 2005
Location: Dayboro, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: 2006.07.10(Mon)7:59    Post subject: Water test kits Reply with quote

I do not know your brand of oxygen test kit to know if the oxygen level is high enough. I do know the higher the temperature the less the oxygen available. If you have problem with the low oxygen level place airstone to increase turburlence where it increase the oxygen level.

Other water test I would look at are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and salanity level. I would also look at copper and chlorine to verify no water parameter hazard to the fish. I see excellent results with the Ammmonia being zero and pH being 8.

I would also like to know any markings or abnormal behaviour of the fish that could show early symptons of the disease. The symptons you have describe with the hole marking on the head sound like the hole in head disease but do not enough information to be sure.

I would like to know of other sick fish tank mates as there could be other fish behaviour of aggressive towards the sick fish. I would like to know what the temperature of the fish tank is in case the aquarium heater playing up.

You are doing a good job with the water changes and see no problem there.
Sorry but I still need more information to help you more.

from Josh
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shellshock
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Joined: 08 Jul 2006
Location: manchester

PostPosted: 2006.07.15(Sat)12:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

The temperature is 27 degrees celsius-the recommended temperature for marine fish, however, on the occasion the weather is hot, the tank gets very hot-around 30+. This obviously is worrying but I take as many measures as I possibly can to lower the temperature as quick and effectively as possible, I.e. ice packs being placed into a plastic bag and submerged in the tank (I cannot afford a cooler but realise this would be the best measure to reduce the risk of affecting the fish in hot weather).I have been informed that fish may show behaviour changes some time after the rise in temperature.

The only behaviour changes in Doro are that she scratches herself on the rock (which indicates that something is irritating her) but the local fish specialist has not suggested that my water needs altering. (I from time to time take in samples of the tank water and they do lots of tests for me).

The usual black marking on her has faded but she eats fine and seems her chirpy happy self...which confuses me further?!

Michelle.
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shellshock
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Joined: 08 Jul 2006
Location: manchester

PostPosted: 2006.07.15(Sat)13:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

p.s. my copperband is fine and healthy (the only other fish in my tank). I have just acquired two turbo snails to help reduce the green algae.

I have done ammonia, 02 and pH testing and they are currently at the correct level.

Michelle.
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FloridaBoy
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Joined: 04 Jul 2004

PostPosted: 2006.07.15(Sat)21:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michelle,
A steady temp of 86 degrees fahrenheit is okay for your fish, however if the temp is cooling at night by several degrees then the shift is cause for concern. Setting your heater to hold the water at a steady 86 will solve this problem. As for the color fading; this will happen when various stress factors are present, usually caused by environment/water quality and/or diet. The green algae is actually enjoyed by the Tang; tanks with green algae are good for Tangs.

Your profile needs to include more info; describe your filtration, are you using a skimmer, live rock or none, any corals or other inverts, all of this will give a more complete picture of your situation.

Be advised, all Butterflyfishes including Copperbands are unsuitable for beginners... your comment is revealing, "I'm fairly new at this and am finding it difficult to find information which explains everything really simple and easy to undersatand (e.g. the nitrogen cycle!!!!)"
The retailer who sold you these fish was not doing you a favor. Copperbands are notorious for dying for no apparent reason, even when feeding on prepared foods and under expert care.

Tangs and Butterflyfishes are simply not good choices for a novice, my years as a retailer tell me you will probably lose both of these due to their delicate nature... if I were you I would return them to the retailer and opt for a tank raised Clownfish and a Blue Damsel (just one Damsel not more) for a few months until you have more experience with the basics of the hobby.

Please make your next purchase a book; THE CONSCIENTIOUS MARINE AQUARIST by Fenner... this will give you the knowledge foundation you need for future success.
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AquariumChicky
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Joined: 08 Jun 2006

PostPosted: 2006.07.16(Sun)15:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just wanted to add my 2 cents.

Isn't it suggest to have at least a 75 gallon for a Blue Tang??? I'm not sure about the Butterfly though.

FloridaBoy is right though. I am not intrested in trying Butterflies because they tend to be delicate. With the Blue Tang, they are more prone to disease than other tangs.

P.S. The best thing to do is what FloridaBoy suggested, take the fish back, BUT before getting more fish, do your research.
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