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get the ick out
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Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Location: Galloway, New Jersey

PostPosted: 2006.07.02(Sun)10:28    Post subject: get the ick out Reply with quote

Hello...I think I have an outbreak of ick or velvet disease in my main tank...I'm going to quarantine the fish and treat with question is do I get rid of the parasites in my main tank...hyposalinity?raising or lowering the temp? and for how long...also can I place my turbo snail in the QT...also what do I do about the bio filtration with the QT since I need to do this right away and can't wait for the QT to cycle...thanks!
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Joined: 04 Jul 2004

PostPosted: 2006.07.02(Sun)16:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be no confusion on ID here; you need to be sure of the problem before proceeding... Marine Cryptocaryon (Ich) looks like someone sprinkled your fish with salt. You should always have a QT up and running 24/7/365, even a 10 or 20 gal with simple undergravel or HOB will work for this... no snails or any other inverts are safe with copper... Hmmm, we need to be careful here; your profile says moray eel and cowfish so this makes even copper unsafe for those species! The parasites in your display will starve in 3 weeks without a fish host. I suggest setting up two QTs one for the eel and cowfish which can be both be treated with freshwater dips of same pH and temp, combined with water changes. The other QT can be for copper for other fish... OR you can treat the main tank with copper, just move the eel and cowfish with any inverts into the QT. In a month or so you can remove the copper with PolyFilter and water changes. You will need to create an ACTIVE bio filter using some media from the display filter dropped into the QT filter or better yet media or gravel from a healthy non-infected system if possible. Daily water changes and tests will help avoid deadly ammonia spikes. You can always have the LFS hold the eel and cowfish iin QT for you if they allow. This mess can be difficult with your animals but not impossible to deal with.

Here are some more thoughts below from my archives:

Temp/salinity changes won't kill the cryptocaryon. Many have tried various psuedo cures for these pathogens, with various results, usually it subsides for a while only to return with a vengeance worse than before; the trophonts/protomonts grow in a cycle, dropping into the substrate and then re-emerging in higher numbers. This cycle confuses a lot of hobbyists, who think they have solved the problem, but the tale of woe is long for this industry-wide problem, and you need copper or starvation to be sure... that's right garlic lovers I said copper.
If you have marine ich in a fish only system and no quarantine tank, you can treat the main tank with copper just follow the directions and make a 20 percent water change in advance. It's better not to treat the main tank if possible, but if you have no q-tank it's better than watching your fish get eaten alive, and believe me, ich will kill every one of them. If you have live rock or other invertebrates it gets more tricky; the copper will kill the inverts, so you need to move ALL the fish to a quarantine system and treat them there for 30 days. This is the preferred method. Lowering the specific gravity (salinity) in QT to 1.018 will help but not required for success. While you are doing this, the trophonts in the display tank will starve. You can leave hermits, shrimp, stars etc. in the display, but you need a biofilter in the q-tank during treatment and monitor daily for ammonia. For some larger fish systems with large fish, moving them all may be impractical, so you will need to plan accordingly and decide whether QT or treating the main fish display is a better COA.
Also, be advised some species (I. e. eels, puffers, moorish idols, etc.) are harmed by copper treatments so research your charges.
Keepin' marines happy for 25 years
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