Tropical Fish Forums

[Arctic]

I lost my Hygrophila corymbosa due to overcooked-asparagus stems and some unknown deficiency (light or nutrients). My anubias nana are starting to show signs of some nutrient deficiency but I am not exactly sure what.



I am thinking that it is either a potassium or phosphate deficiency. Does anyone have any ideas?

I've ordered the following Seachem products and plan to begin some fertilization schedule:

• Seachem Flourish Comprehensive
  
• Seachem Flourish Trace
  
• Seachem Flourish Nitrogen
  
• Seachem Flourish Potassium
  

[unissuh]

Doesn't look like potassium, but don't have much experience with nutrient deficiencies.

Best approach is just to dose all the nutrients in a balanced manner (see PPS-Pro or EI guidelines) - that will eliminate your problem without all this guessing and counter dosing etc.
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Fishing in the Rivers of Light

[Arctic]

Thanks for the reply, unissuh! I am seriously considering the PPS-Pro dosing method once I use up my 500ml bottles of Seachem fertilizers

I'm going to give this chart a try:

http://www.seachem.com/support/PlantDoseChart.pdf

[Arctic]

There is also this really neat calculator that can help me use my Seachem Flourish fertilizers in the Estimated Index or Perpetual Preservation System dosing methods.

http://calc.petalphile.com/

I'm going to give it a try (instead of the Seachem dosing chart) and will come back with results.

[unissuh]

Let us know if it works.

You may also want to add a phosphate fert to your mix - I notice that is lacking. Also, Flourish trace is quite dilute, as Flourish comprehensive has all the trace in it, suggest you just use that one as a "trace" mix if you are going to continue with the Seachem line.
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Fishing in the Rivers of Light

[Arctic]

Unissuh,

Thank you for the suggestion on the fertilizers. I switched the Seachem Flourish Trace for the Seachem Flourish Phosphorous. The fertilizer dosage recommended by the calculator (EI daily) appears to be working extremely well. The yellow spots/holes on the anubias nana have not grown since that picture but turned brown then crumbled away. I'll post pictures tomorrow when the lights are on.

On Tuesday, I replaced the hygrophila corymbosa with 6 Myriophyllum pinnatum, 2 cryptocoryne spiralis, and 1 Echinodorus tenellus. The myrio seems to be really flourishing in the tank. The crypt looked very healthy though it appears that the tip of one of the leaves is doing a "crypt melt" thing.

I also got a 54W Zoo Med Ultra Sun T5HO and a 54W Zoo Med Flora Sun T5HO bulb today. Those are replacing the stock bulbs that came with the Aquatic Life T5HO dual lamp fixture (1 5000K 54W T5NO bulb and 1 650nm T5HO "roseate" bulb). Hopefully this encourages more growth! It will be interesting to see if I will need to tweak my fertilizer dosage with the new lights.

Once I use up the Seachem fertilizers, I am planning on switching over to dry fertilizers. They will be much more cost-effective than buying the Seachem liquid line. For example, 1 pound of Mono Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4) is selling for 5.00USD at Green Leaf Aquariums whereas 500ml of Seachem Flourish Phosphorous is currently selling for >11.00USD (Seachem Flourish Potassium is selling for >15.00USD).

[paisley]

I know this is an old thread but my annubias looks just like this one! I also noticed some small brown circle spots on my other plant which I don't know excatly what type of plant it is but is has smaller leaves and is taller than the nana. Anyways, my LFS guy said I could hold off on fert. for the plants since I used eco-substrate that had stuff added too it. Should I buy some fert for the plants tomorrow?? One of the tall one's did die and I removed it today. The pH in the water is 7.8, is that too high? Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Paisley

[Arctic]

Check the diagram from here:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fertilizers-water-parameters/98529-plant-deficiency-diagram.html

[paisley]

Thanks for the link, and I read the thread below the diagram which was helpful also:) I do still wonder about adding fert. or CO2 to my tank?? I know the plants I bought were supposed to be hardy since I told the LFS guy that I really don't know what I am doing so I need something that can tolerate a bit while I learn. I noticed that my pH is 7.8 in the tank now and it was 6.8 when I added the betta 5 days ago. Not sure why the pH jumped?? Or if I should alter it with a w/c since the pH in my tap water is 6.6-6.8. Also, thinking that I should add something for the plants but after reading on the CO2 thing, it seems like I might do more harm than good since I have no background in that area.
Thanks again for the info though,
P

[Arctic]

As promised last night, here is a photo of my anubias nana four days after fertilizing started. The picture is from the underside because it got knocked out of the substrate and rotated.



Here is a full tank shot from a few minutes ago:


Compared to this full tank shot that was taken the day after I planted my plants (February 1:



The ludwigia took a bit of a beating and have been spread out a bit more. Also, the hygrophila corymbosa are no longer in the aquarium.