Tropical Fish Forums

[norcal_tomtom707]

OK, so I was thinking about converting one of my 55 gallon tanks over to a salt water tank. I was talking to my LFS, and thery told me, that it wouldnt ve that hard, or expensive at all, especially since I only want to do a non-living tank, meaning, a mostly fish, non coral/reef tank. They said the only thing I would need is crushed coral, or sand, sea salt, and extra filtration, maybe a protein skimmer, Thats about it. What do you think?? Mayby something like this...maybe a few live rock here an there, but nothing extravagent. I honestly just don't liek the looks of a reef tank, and real coral. But thats just my opinion. And by no mean is a dis on anyone who does it..

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Tom Tom

[Dusko]

[norcal_tomtom707]

Awesome, thanks a lot for the input, I know the saltwater is going to be more patience, and going to take my time with it.
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Tom Tom

[MarkLehr]

In addition to cycling the tank, it is very important to allow the tank to mature. Over the course of 2 or 3 months following the cycle, you will see many visible changes in the aquarium.

1) Copepod and amphipod populations will begin to flourish, becoming visible to the naked eye on the glass and in the sand bed.
2) A diatom algae bloom will have its run, covering rock with a brown dusting. This diatom bloom will go away on its own.
3) Coraline algae will begin to encrust your live rock and glass.
4) Nitrate readings will begin to DROP, as the bacteria in your live rock and sand bed mature and effective denitrification begins.
5) Alkalinity and calcium levels will become more predictable, and your test results and supplementation will be more routine.

All of these things are what the experienced marine keeper means by the word "mature" or "established". These things are important in predicting the stability of your system and should be considered critical in helping you determine which types of fish you are ready to purchase, even for a FOWLR system.

By the way, I would highly recommend that you add adequate amounts of rock. You can "seed" the aquarium with 5 or 10 pounds of live rock, and then add an additional 50 pounds or so of dry rock. I personally use www.marcorocks.com for all of my dry rock needs. My current 180 was set up with 200 pounds of dry rock and 40 pounds of live rock.

I also have to support the importance of the protein simmer. This will be your most important piece of equipment. In fact, I run all of my marine aquariums using only live rock, sand, and a protein skimmer.

[norcal_tomtom707]

OK thanks a lot for the input. I actually found a hob filter on dr foster and smith. And they have a built in protein skimmer on it.would that work as the skimmer? Or should I have a specific protein skimmer?
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Tom Tom

[MarkLehr]

There are a number of hang on the back type skimmers for sale today. Some of decent quality.... probably 90% are junk. What exactly is the skimmer you are looking at?

[norcal_tomtom707]

It does not say a brand it just says bio system power filter & oxy surface skimmer with bio filters. Made for fresh or salt water aquariums.
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Tom Tom

[Dusko]

If you mean this one then it is no good
http://www.stm-shop.CO2.uk/acatalog/niagara_skimmer_web.jpg

What you need for bigger tanks is this one, a very good skimmer;
http://www.jlaquatics.com/phpstore/store_pages/details/skimmers.php?product_ID=DD-P0300

Or if you are to build a sump this one;
http://www.deltecusa.us/turboskimmers/turbo1250.php

I believe you might be better off if you get a All In One Reef Tank like Red Sea Max 130;
http://www.redseamax.com/redseamax/250Temp/redseamax/Red_Sea_MAX_HP_130D.html

http://www.redseafish.com/redseamax/Red_Sea_MAX_specs.html

Regards, Dusko
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[FloridaBoy]

That Red Sea Max system looks pretty nice...
but once the tank is set up and you put it against the wall, how do you
access that back filter area? For example if one of those pumps goes out
do you have to drain the tank and move it to replace the pump?
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Keepin' marines happy for 25 years

[Dusko]