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yellow tang regal tang
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Bocefus
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Joined: 16 Aug 2006

PostPosted: 2006.08.24(Thu)21:31    Post subject: yellow tang regal tang Reply with quote

My Yellow tang looks pink in areas and white discolored towards the bottom he also has some skin irritation around the eyes. As for the Regal tang she has irritation around the eyes too but I thought it might be normal because she wedges herself in the rock so I thought it might be trauma but now I don't know. Your help and replies are greatly appreciated thanks.
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FloridaBoy
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Joined: 04 Jul 2004

PostPosted: 2006.08.25(Fri)16:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, profile says 45 gal live rock and sand... what are your tests showing for water parameters include recent results for ammonia, nitrite, AND nitrate, and what is the tank history, (how long has it been up), other tankmates, describe filtration in detail and diet regimen please. A water change may be in order, do you have a skimmer?
The "irritation" is likely early signs of HLLE...

Tangs are easily stressed, and they will reflect or display stress a lot faster than other fish... your YT is not happy, and really needs a 6 foot tank for long term. Your Regal's behaviour can be normal, even on the reef they will hide like this when small, however these get large and it will also outgrow your system.

More below from my files, RE Tangs and Angelfish:
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Although some species are very hardy and adapt well under good care, in my opinion this group as a whole should be reserved for established tanks with at least 6-12 months growth of green micro algae, or even better some live rock and the experience to go with it. As a general rule, these groups are less tolerant of the "unlearned" conditions often found in beginners tanks, including poor water quality, traces of ammonia or nitrites, overcrowded (small) spaces, high nitrates and dissolved organics, low quality diet or unvaried foods, lack of greens, etc. Thus, they will often "reflect" these stressful conditions long before other fish are impacted (canary in the coal mine). Some species are highly susceptible to head and lateral line erosion (HLLE) without proper diet and proper organic export equipment/protocol.
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Bocefus
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Joined: 16 Aug 2006

PostPosted: 2006.08.26(Sat)19:01    Post subject: yellow tang regal tang Reply with quote

I am sorry it took me a while to post repy. I did a partial water change the YT looks a tad bit better swiming around a little more and eating OK.
Here we go
1. Amonia 0.25 Nitrite 0-0.25 Nitrate 20-40
2.Tank mates two Percula clown, one Blue velvet damsel, one Fridmani Pseudochromis, Yellow Tang, Regal Tang
3.Diet Green Marine Agae every other day Frozen brine shrimp daily
4.No Skimmer
5.Rena Filstar XP1 With bio chem zorb, Foam 30,20 Microfiltration pad
6.History The aquarium is about 8 months old. Had an ich infestation about two months ago due to introduction of a sick long nose yellow butterfy aquired at lfs. Treated tank with ich attack to no avail then chellated copper for one month
lost a few fish then purchased the two tangs about a month ago they were doing fine until now.

Thanks for your help
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FloridaBoy
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Joined: 04 Jul 2004

PostPosted: 2006.08.26(Sat)19:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

And my suggestions are:

1. Return both Tangs to LFS immediately you are overcrowded as is.
(any ammonia or nitrite is unacceptable in 8 mo. old tank)

2. Continue water changes daily until ZERO ammonia and nitrites.

3. Add a serious skimmer use the search tool there, maybe ASM line.
(you need organic export)

4. Follow FloridaBoy's first rule of marine aquariums:
get a second hospital tank set up now and use it for quarantine of all new arrivals.

Best wishes for your success...
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Pete Harcoff
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Joined: 18 Jun 2005
Location: Canada

PostPosted: 2006.08.26(Sat)20:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I'd ditto returning the tangs and getting a protein skimmer. You shouldn't have ammonia or nitrites at all. And your nitrates are a bit high (ideally they should be under 20 ppm).
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FloridaBoy
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Joined: 04 Jul 2004

PostPosted: 2006.08.27(Sun)9:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem is, copper has a way of being absorbed into calcareous rock and sand, then leaching back into your water column over time. In a fish only setup this is not a big concern, but inverts are extremely sensitive to metals. If you plan on keeping shrimps, snails, brittle stars, etc. then you may have a problem.

After you get the QT set up, you need to start rebuilding your base with fresh cured live rock and its associated micro fauna and inverts; these were all damaged by the copper. You did not mention the substrate, your live sand was also damaged if not wiped out by the copper, a PolyFilter
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Bocefus
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Joined: 16 Aug 2006

PostPosted: 2006.08.28(Mon)0:16    Post subject: Thanks Reply with quote

Thank you for your help. I am determined to make my aquarium work well all my family has enjoyed putting effort into it but it is not good when things go wrong.
I am doing water changes like you advised and reading on protein skimers I understand them better now but Which one to buy? Looks like I should buy one with venturi driven but there are so many. I need to find one ASAP and order it.
I wil also start replacing live sand and rock slowly. To put sand back into tank I am sure filter needs to be turned of and what about fish should they be removed to reduce stress or just place sand back in slowly like in a corner then spread evenly
I strongly think the Yellow tang is the dirtiest of all since he is the biggest fish and leaves large dropings. The regal tang is very small but I am sure removing it will help
About QT what size do you recomend and setup I am sure it needs to be very similar to display tank and water parameters should be almost identical
Thanks again for your time your advise will be taken and apreciated
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FloridaBoy
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Joined: 04 Jul 2004

PostPosted: 2006.08.28(Mon)20:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the skimmer, as I said before;
use the search tool here this has been addressed many times, I would suggest the ASM line.

Regarding the QT, there are different ways to success here, this is the way I choose to do it, and have done it for many years... others have success with different setups, who cares... more power to them! My main concern is that you have SOME type of QT system and use it religiously!

Some advocate setting up the QT as a temporary system, to be used only from time to time and then break it down when done. I do not agree with this method. I prefer to keep a small, second marine tank with a stable bio filter running all the time for emergencies. In fact in my opinion this is one of the great secrets to long term success in the hobby, and it is essential to reducing disease issues in your display.

You can get by with a 10-20 gal simple set up employing an undergravel filter and run it 24/7/365. You will need a constant resident for a healthy biofilter like a tank raised tomato clownfish, a heater, basic light and a cover. The undergravel can be driven with 2 small powerheads or even a basic air pump will work. Set the heater to maintain the same temperature as your display tank. You can try to keep the specific gravity the same as the display also, but no need to get fanatical over this.

Do not use live sand for the QT, use 1 inch of crushed coral or oyster shell and do not use live rock, as you will be medicating with copper from time to time, indeed that is the purpose. No invertebrates. Add a couple of hiding places; rocks or even PVC tubing will work.

You can also use a hang on filter instead of the UGF, some will prefer a bare bottom in the QT, but I have always preferred UGF as the crushed coral naturally buffers the water and makes it a very low maintenance system. When using copper always test daily as the new substrate will absorb it for a while until it gets older. If you practice fresh water dips, your use of copper will be far less, I really think of this as more of a back up tank it's good insurance in case you have an aggression problem or a disaster like a leaking display. One thing I want to make clear; the QT will in no way be connected to the display, it will never share a centralized filter or sump... it needs to be completely separate; a stand alone system.

Like any marine system, you will need to cycle the QT, you can ease this process by seeding it with gravel from a healthy system. That's it, simple... once it's cycled, you feed the fish once a day and make 15-25 % water changes once a month and you're done.
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